General Care.

This section deals with the care of your budgerigars, including food and diet, housing, treatment and prevention of medical problems and other subjects related to keeping birds alive.

Diet

The diet that you provide for your budgerigars is important, as birds in breeding or showing condition need to be properly fed. The type of diet will depend on the climate in your area, as in hotter weather birds will require less starch and protein to build body fat. If the climate is cold, extra starch will need to be provided through the birds' diet. The best way to decide on the diet for your budgerigars is to approach local breeders or societies and see what they recommend.

In the wild, budgerigars feed on grass seeds, eucalyptus leaves, buds and bark and other greens. Budgerigars are vegetarian, and should not be supplied with meat, milk or other animal proteins. The birds' digestive systems are not able to properly digest such food, and these proteins tend to go off quickly.

Feed Mix

The feed mix you provide for your budgerigars should resemble the natural diet of the wild birds, modified to suit the larger framed domestic budgerigar. The feed mix can be bought pre-packed, but for those who prefer to have more control over the diet can mix their own. A basic mix would consist of 40 % canary seed, 20 % French millet, 20 % panicum, and 20 % oats. For colder climates the percentage of oats can be increased to provide more starch in the diet. Cod liver oil or wheatgerm oil can be added to provide more protein.

Greens

Budgerigars enjoy greens in addition to the seed mix provided. Leaves off vegetables are good, and grass is also a good source of food, especially the growing stems or sprouting seeds. The best form of greens that you can supply are branches from trees, as they provide a source of exercise as well as leaves, bark and shoots. Eucalyptus are best, but if these are not available in your area then try other types. (Make sure that the tree you are supplying is not poisonous, as this could have a negative effect on the health of your birds!) The best way to find out what your birds like is by experimenting.

Diet Supplements

Calcium is an important mineral that must be supplied to your birds, especially for development of the young and for nesting hens. It can be supplied in the form of a calcium block, or cuttlefish bone. An alternative is to save egg shells from your kitchen, dry and grind them and supply them as a powder.

Grit is needed for aiding in the birds' digestive process. Grit is used by the bird to grind food in the stomach. Loose sandy soil will suffice, or grit can be bought commercially. Grit can be added to the seed mix or provided in a separate dish.

Vitamins are needed by birds, in particular the B group of vitamins. Vitamin preparations can be purchased from pet suppliers in liquid or soluble forms, or as a powder to mix into the seed.

Water must be kept clean at all times. Although budgerigars can go without water for up to 3 weeks, this is not the best way to raise birds, especially in hot weather. The birds will bathe in the water, and usually manage to get a large number of droppings in the water. The water supply should be out of direct sunlight, as the warmth increases bacteria growth. Water can be supplied in a bowl, but an automatic feeder that only releases a small amount of water at a time can reduce the chance of the water becoming dirty. Raspberry Cordial is added to the water by some breeders, as this seems to kill bacteria and make the birds healthy. A weak solution of raspberry cordial in the water can reduce the chances of your flock becoming sick. Be wary of this technique with show birds in show time, as a raspberry stain down the front of the bird will not be viewed favourably be the judges.

Aviary Construction

Dimensions

The length of your flight should be the main consideration when designing or buying an aviary. There should be at least 2 meters of length for the birds to be able to exercise properly. Greater lengths are preferable as they provide even more exercise room. Width is not as important, and can be dictated by how much room you have available. Practically the width should be larger than the width of a door to allow easy access to the birds. The shape of your aviary will also rely on the shape of the area where you put it. A large aviary is not something that fits inconspicuously into a garden unless it is planned out properly. Aviaries can also be built inside if no outdoor space is available, there are examples of breeders who have their aviaries in the garage or on a balcony due to lack of garden space.

Numbers

The number of birds that you will need to be a successful breeder depends on how many varieties you are going to concentrate on. A good stud will contain about 50 birds for each variety, allowing for main breeding birds, show birds, and birds to modify the main breeding strain. Your aviary should be able to house this many birds for each variety. As a rough guide, a flight of 2.5 meters by 1.5 meters will hold 100 birds in a squeeze. Aviary sizes with the number of birds they can house are given in the aviary designs below. (Still under construction.)

Location

The location of your aviary should be given some consideration. Budgerigars can be noisy, especially in the morning, so neighbours should be kept in mind. Shelter is the main concern, and the position you choose should be protected from high wind and heavy rain, as well as direct sunlight if the climate is warm. Underneath the shade of a tree can be good as this provides some shade in the middle of the day, as well as wind and rain protection. Keep in mind that leaves will have to be cleaned off the roof of the aviary. Another consideration is the need to expand. If you plan to start off small then add onto your aviary as your flock grows, then don't forget to take this into account when positioning your aviary.

Materials

The best material for constructing an aviary is metal. The frames should be metal, as this prevents small insects from hiding in the cracks of the frame. Make sure wire mesh is used on the roof underneath the roofing. Roofing can be smashed by falling branches or blown off in heavy wind and the mesh provides extra protection. Mesh should also be put inside walls that are covered in material that may break, such as fibre-glass sheets.

Roofing

The aviary should be fully covered by the roof. Leaving an area uncovered to let the birds fly in the rain and sun will most likely lead to feed getting wet and other problems. A full roof provides better protection from wild birds and neighbourhood cats. The roof can be made of clear material or metal sheets, or a combination of the two. In my experience, covering the roof with clear sheets and then having metal sheets that can be placed on top off these allows you to control the amount of light and heat in the aviary. The clear sheets are good for winter conditions, then placing a layer of metal sheets over some of the roof in summer blocks out unwanted heat.

Safety Doors

Safety doors are needed to prevent birds from escaping when you enter the flight. When designing your aviary, try to avoid doors leading from outside directly into the flight areas. The breeding room, a storage room or a corridor that opens onto the flights can serve as a safety area, as can a set of double doors. Do not neglect this area when designing an aviary, or you are sure to regret it later.

Perches

Perches should always be constructed from wood. Metal perches will cause problems for the birds' feet and plastic perches can be broken easily and prove harmful if chewed. The perches should vary in diameter to provide exercise. Two approaches can be taken with perch design: 1) a bracket of perches that is easy to repair and install, or 2) using natural tree branches and wiring them together in the flight area. The first method is easier to fix if a perch is broken, while the second method is more natural and interesting for the birds.

Breeding Room

The breeding room should be positioned off the main flights. The room should contain shelf space for placing the breeding cabinets on, so keep the dimensions of breeding cabinets in mind when designing the breeding room. The breeding room will be more efficient if it is no visible from the main flight, as birds in the breeding cabinets will be distracted by the sight of other birds flying about. Light should be plentiful to allow the birds to find the nesting box on an overcast day. Clear roofing is ideal for this, and an additional electric light can be helpful if you feel there is not enough light.

Breeding Cabinets

The breeding cabinets should be able to hold two large budgerigars and allow them to exercise. Perches should not move or roll, and should not be too close to the ceiling or floor or the cabinet. The cabinets should be modular in design so that they can be stacked up or ideally fitted into a frame on the wall that they can be removed from if need be. Food and water containers should be easily accessible.

Nesting Boxes

The nest box can be placed to the side or front of the cabinet. The nest box should have a false bottom that can be removed, and a hollow in the false bottom for the hen to nest in. The hollow should be deep enough to stop eggs from rolling away from the hen.

Medical Equipment

There are several items that should be kept in the breeding room to treat a minor injury or illness.

Dettol is useful for treating some parasites and infections.

Antibiotics for birds can be purchased from a pet supplier, such as Aureomycin and Bioserine.

Sulphur based drug preparation.

Eye Ointment is needed for eye infections.

Mercurochrome for cuts.

A Heated Cage is necessary for isolating and helping sick birds recover. The cage is usually of wood construction, with a glass front. Heat is provided from a light bulb below the floor, and a thermometer is placed inside the cage so the temperature can be monitored and kept at a constant around 37 degrees Centigrade. Ventilation should be controllable so the bird does not die of heat exhaustion rather than the illness you are trying to treat. Fresh air should enter the cage, but not enough to cause a large draft. Consult a local breeder about the construction of a heated cage, as it is an important piece of equipment.

A temporary measure can be provided by covering a small holding cage or cabinet and keeping it inside at room temperature.

Ailments

Due to the rapid metabolism of birds, it is essential that illness is treated as soon as possible. Birds should be checked daily for signs of sickness. Sick birds will usually be huddled, withdrawn, drooping on the perch and disinterested in it's surroundings.

There are seven main causes of illness in budgerigars, as set out below:

Inadequate Nutrition

The diet of your birds is important when it comes to keeping them healthy. Make sure that feed and calcium are provided, and that water is always clean. If feed is adequate and covers the areas set out in the diet section then there should be no problem. Climatic Conditions

Great variations in temperature can often be the cause of illness. If a bird is effected by a sudden change in temperature then place them in a holding cage where the temperature is controlled. In cold weather, it is important that the birds remain dry. As climate can vary so much across the globe, it is probably best to consult a local breeder if you experience troubles with the local climate.

Poisoning

Poisoning, although not common, will affect the whole flock if the source is not removed promptly. Budgerigars are naturally curious, and will chew anything in reach of their cage. A toxic plant near your aviary can cause poisoning even if it is only in reach in strong wind. Also beware of any food that may have gone off, or been treated with insecticide.

A poisoned bird may be twitching, and there may be frothing at the nose and mouth. If a bird has been poisoned, remove it from the aviary and place it in a heated cage. Remove any build-up around the beak and provide fresh food and water. Make sure that you find the cause of poisoning and remove it.

Shock

Shock comes in two main forms - with young birds that have been savaged by their parents; and with the rest of the flock due to outside influences. With the first case, a chick may be attacked by a parent if the parent sees it as a threat to a future nest. If the chick can feed itself, remove it and place it in a heated cage until it recovers. If it is still young, foster the chicks out to other nests or remove the parent that has been attacking the young. One parent will be able to raise a nest, but make sure you remove the correct parent. Savaging of young is dealt with in more detail in the section on breeding problems.

Parasites

Worms: Birds should be dewormed 3 or 4 times a year. Budgerigars generally suffer from Ascaris and Capillaris worms, which can be treated with deworming agents such as Piperazine or Levimasole.

Coccidiosis: Symptoms include a soiled vent and a huddled look, and maybe blood in the droppings. Proper diagnosis is available through microscopic examination, but a preparation such as Bioserine can be used if you suspect a bird has the condition.

Ornithosis - Psittacosis: This disease is also contagious to humans, and the symptoms include runny eyes and blinking. The disease can be treated with Aureomycin or Tylon.

Feather Lice: These lice live on the feathers off the birds and can cause feather damage and discomfort. Birds should be dipped in the warmer weather to prevent lice.

Red Mite: These are small insects that live in any cracks in your aviary or breeding cabinets. They feed on the birds at night, causing birds to look anaemic or lethargic. Treatment is via commercially available sprays for your aviary. Before the breeding season the cabinets and nest boxes should be dusted with a poultry powder or sprayed with a household insecticide.

Scaly Face - Knemidocoptes: The symptoms of this disease are an obvious scaling or powder around the beak and eyes of the bird. Treatment is with commercially available solutions, or with a household disinfectant such as Dettol. Apply the solution to the inflected area and let the bird fly in the aviary for a few days, then repeat the application. If needed, a third application should cure the condition.

Moulds

There are no real cures for a mould infection, so prevention is important. Mould infection occurs when seed is allowed to decay, and the mould spores are inhaled. Make sure any old seed husks are cleaned out of the aviary, especially in damp weather.

Viral Infections

Salmonellosis and E.Coli may be treated with Bioserine or Aureomycin. Symptoms include diarrhoea and drowsiness, and E.Coli may be the cause of some embryonic mortality. Red cordial in the birds' drinking water can also prevent microbes from growing out of hand.

Respiratory Diseases

These usually cause the bird to breath with it's beak open and pump it's tail when breathing. Treatment is with Aureomycin in the drinking water for a week, or until the bird recovers.